Sil Canyon: a magical landscape in Galicia

The river Sil is the natural border between the provinces of Lugo and Ourense, in Galicia, northwest of Spain. At this point, the river opens its way through a deep canyon of many meanders, encased between two vertical natural walls, some of which are 500 metres in vertical above the water. At other points, however, where the sun hits at noon, they turn into smooth slopes, worked on the rock by the human hand, exhibiting vines as far as the eye can see. At the opposite riverbank, in the shade, grow forests of oaks and chestnuts trees. And hidden among them, up to 18 monasteries. This is a unique place in Spain. Do you want to find out more about Sil Canyon, a magical landscape in Galicia? 

A unique place in Spain

This area may look wild, but actually it has been explored since the Celtic. The Romans were the ones to plant the vines (Caesars were said to appreciate the quality of this wine, nowadays a protected denomination of origin). After they left, a few eremite monks started to arrive to this quiet place, so close to the end of the known world, in search of peace and quiet. However, soon it became quite a popular place to retire, so the first monasteries were built, up to the final 18 of them. Hidden between high rocks or deep forests you can see them, and then you will understand why this area, Ribeira Sacra, has always been known as the sacred river. The thing is though, recent studies show that in the beginning this name was rather the sacred oak, as it must have been a place of worship for druids, back at the time were Celtics inhabited the area. 

Patrimony

The Sil Canyon area is full of cool attractions to see and do. As I mentioned before, up to 18 monasteries were built in this small area, which clearly shows how attractive this land was for religious people. I do not have space here to tell you about every abbey, but I can tell you the ones you should not miss on a visit! The first one is Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil. It was built between the 12th and the 18th century, at the end of a Roman way. King Ordoño the II gave Abbot Franquila this territory for him to build a monastery. It became so important that nine bishops gave up their careers to retire here. The coat of arms still shows their mitres. In this huge monastery you can visit its two cloisters: the bishops’ cloister and the knights’ cloister. 

Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil

Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil, 32164, Ourense, España

Nearby there is another popular monastery: Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil. Its surrounding landscape is simply stunning, and it will surprise you like coming out from an enchanted forest. It was built on the 10th century, and it became one of the most important monasteries of the area during the Medieval Age. The monks here produced wine and chestnuts, highly appreciated. You can still visit its Romanesque church. 

Santa Cristina de Ribas del Sil

Monasterio de Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil - RIBEIRA SACRA, Lugar de, Ctra. de Castro, s/n, 32740 Parada de Sil, Ourense, España

Another great place is monastery of San Pedro de Rocas. We have news of this monastery as early as 573. However, a huge fire destroyed everything but three caves. When you enter this place, it feels very ancient, like it belongs to a lost civilization - even though they were Christians. The first hermits lived in the three caves. A church was built on the 12th century. On the left wall there is a unique painting in Galicia: a map of the known world at that time. 

Its name means “St. Peter of the rocks”, and the name speaks for itself. Even the bell tower was placed above a huge rock, another unique item of this monastery. Also on the rocks, many tombs were excavated with a human shape, for those who wanted to rest forever in this sacred place. 

Indeed, this was a very popular area for cemeteries. A nearby necropolis is located at St. Vitor de Barxacova. It was discovered while looking for a lost chapel. The chapel had been destroyed, but this place, used during the 9th and the 10th century, appeared intact. Its human shaped tombs were all oriented east-west. 

Last but not least, once you are in San Pedro de Rocas, you should go to Santa María de Xunqueira de Espanedo. Built in many styles, from Romanesque to Baroque, it has become one of the most popular visits at the area of Ribeira Sacra. 

Nature 

One of the reasons Sil Canyon is so popular is because of its nature. Oaks and chestnut trees grow here combined with Mediterranean vegetation like cork trees or vines, everything nesting on granite rocks. To complete the picture, here and there you will find magnificent waterfalls. 

Viewpoints

The best way to admire this unique landscape is through its many, many spectacular viewpoints. There is a signalised route that you can do, or, if you are in a hurry, you have to at least get to the most famous one: the Balcones de Madrid, Madrid’s balconies. According to the tradition, women used to come here to see their husbands leave to the capital in search of work. 

Another great way to explore is by hopping on one of the many catamarans that sail the Sil every day. 

How to get here

Sil Canyon is ideal no matter what the season is. If you are at Santiago de Compostela, you can try this day tour where you will discover all the “musts” of the Sil Canyon. If you want to do the French Way, this is the most traditional path while in winter. If you are traveling by car, it gives you the freedom to visit the monuments you wish. The Ribeira Sacra area is great whether you travel light or you travel and work - here, like the old hermits, you will be able to concentrate without any problems on your duties! It does not matter if you are on a budget or not. If you want to stay some days, this area has amazing places for you to stay, full houses with charm, comfort, and traditional Galician styles. I strongly recommend Casa Leirón and A Brava, both nearby the Sil Canyon, and hence ideal to start your tours to fully enjoy Sil Canyon, a magical landscape in Galicia…